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These 10 Handyman Skills Should Be Learned By Everyone

These 10 Handyman Skills Should Be Learned By Everyone. We understand why you’d rather leave the heavier handyman work to the pros, such as major electrical repairs, extensive plumbing, or anything involving a septic tank.

A man, on the other hand, should be familiar with the contents of a toolbox. It’s vital to be able to take care of the necessities on your own, whether you live in an apartment or a condo.

Furthermore, you’re squandering money if you’ve been calling a plumber every time your sink clogs.

Men used to learn a lot of basic carpentry, plumbing, electricity, and other maintenance skills from their fathers as a matter of course, but for those of you who didn’t, here are 10 abilities that every man should have in order to control his own castle.

1. Look for a stud

Why rely on a technology when you can find the stud yourself? Studfinders, the tool that inspired a thousand jokes, aren’t cheap. The vertical beams that support walls and are used to hang decorations, television screens, and anchor heavy furniture are known as studs. A stud should be installed on both sides of each window, as well as adjacent electrical boxes for switches and outlets. Look for any nails hammered into the moulding, as these are generally pushed into the stud. Once you’ve discovered one, measure the others. Studs are normally positioned every 16 to 24 inches around the room. Use the following method to figure out where the studs are: When you tap the wall, it makes a noise.

2. Make a wall anchor out of a bookcase

It’s time to put your stud to work now that you’ve found one. To prevent the wall from collapsing due to a seismic event, a domestic mishap, or a super-athletic bout of sex, heavy independent objects such as bookcases should be secured to it.

To begin, find the studs in the wall where your bookcase will be mounted. Depending on the type of bookshelf you’re anchoring and how much damage you’re willing to suffer, you have a few options. You’re in luck if the bookshelf doesn’t have a back: Simply measure and space two L-brackets, one of which must be on a stud, at least 24 inches apart. Make a note of it. With a pencil, mark holes on the wall and shelf; hammer or drill a pilot hole in the indicated spots; and then screw the L-bracket to the shelf’s side or underside, as well as the wall.

Measure the width of the case’s shelves minus the frame for a bookcase with a back, then cut a 1×6 piece of lumber to fit. Drill two or three pilot holes at the height of the case’s top shelf, at least one of which should go into a stud. Place the lumber in place and drill a second set of pilot holes to match the holes in the walls. Then secure the board to the wall using screws long enough to pass through the board, drywall, and wall stud. Finally, secure the book’s underside with two L-brackets. Return the bookshelf to its original location and secure the brackets to the lumber that has been mounted.

3. Use spackle to fill a hole or scuff

Shifting or removing your wall art can leave unsightly gaps and bumps that can destroy your man cave. To keep your pad looking beautiful, make it a habit to keep spackle, a putty knife, and paint on available. First, remove any loose fragments or anything that sticks out of the hole you’re attempting to patch. With the putty knife, spread a thin, uniform layer of spackle over the hole, pushing firmly to make a thin, level layer – spackle shrinks, so a little extra over the hole is good. Allow a few hours for it to dry before reapplying if necessary. On top of the initial layer, place a second layer. Cover the damaged area with paint after polishing the spackle with fine-grade sandpaper until it’s flat against the wall

4. Replace any tiles that are missing

Because broken tiles are preceded by loose or wobbling tiles, this is a minor problem that should be addressed before it becomes a major one. Run a hot iron over the tile and the surrounding area to loosen the glue, then gently lift it out. Wipe the area underneath with alcohol and then scrape it clean with the putty knife to remove all of the old adhesive. After applying a fresh application of tile glue to the gap and the back of the tile, carefully replace it. With a rolling pin, roll the tile into place and eliminate any air bubbles, then wipe away any leftover glue on or around the tile. If you’re seeking for a unique method to express yourself,

This is the place to let your personality shine. Weigh down the floor tile using a heavy object, such as a stack of books, until the bond sets.

5. Seal a shower, sink, or tub with caulk

This one is almost pleasurable to read. If you find leaks around your sink, shower, or bathtub, it may be time to replace the caulking – that line of putty or gel at the seam where the basin meets the wall or floor. Caulking should be resealed at least once a year because it loses its effectiveness over time.

Using a plastic putty knife, scrape out the old caulking, then clean the surface with rubbing alcohol. To achieve a neat, even line, place a strip of masking tape above and below the area where you’ll be putting your caulk. Take your tube of caulk – there are several sorts, but one that contains silicone will provide superior mildew protection – and load it into the caulking gun, cutting open the application tip and puncturing through any secondary layer of packaging within the package guidelines.

Smoothly move the caulking gun along the seam you want to repair while simultaneously depressing the trigger. Smooth and straighten the line with your finger after applying the caulk, removing any excess caulk before pulling off the masking tape. Allow the caulking to dry for at least a day or two before exposing it to water or moisture.

6. Fix a leaking faucet

The specifics change each model, but the basic principles stay the same: In the end, the best solution is nearly always to replace a worn-out or damaged washer, O-ring, or stem. The steps listed below can assist you in identifying the problem, but before replacing any broken parts, double-check the size.

Turn off the water at the faucets as well as the mainline, which is usually a small valve connected to the pipes beneath your sink. With your flat-head screwdriver, gently remove the knob handle(s); lubricate with a little penetrating oil if it feels too tight to fall off easily. Loosen the packing nut with a wrench. This should reveal the stem, which you can then remove and inspect for damage. The O-ring and washer should also be replaced, as one of these three components is most likely to blame. Reassemble the faucet in the same order as before – washer and O-ring, stem, packing nut, screw, handle – reattach the handle, turn on the water, and test the water.

If the leak persists, you’ve exhausted all options. It’s time to hire a plumber because the problem has become more serious.

7. Unclog plugged drains

Depending on the severity of the clog, you have a few options. Pour a mixture of vinegar, hot water, and baking soda down the drain to clear any soft blockages such as grease or product. If that doesn’t work, try the plunger – not the one you use to flush your toilet, guy; you’ve earned it. Pour half a gallon of water into the sink, then plunge the drain like a toilet, pumping the rubber part to create suction.

Is your clogged drain still there? Keep an eye out for the trap. Place a bucket underneath your pipes and detach the trap (the curved portion of pipe that connects your sink to the vertical pipe) with a screwdriver or by hand. You might either use a pipe wrench or do it by hand. Before replacing the trap, attaching the other pipes, and running some water to see if the drain is clean, drain the water and clear any obstructions. If it doesn’t work, you’ll have to…

8. Slithering snaking snaking snaking

It’s not glamourous, but you have to get that trash out. For this, you’ll need a drain auger, which is a coiled spiral instrument that pulls or drills through a deep clog; if you don’t have one, most building supply stores rent both manual and electric ones.

To begin, try the drain: insert the snake’s end into the opening and spin the drum handle clockwise, sending the auger cable down the drain until it encounters resistance. Rotate the snake until it loses resistance, then pull it out; whatever is obstructing the sink should come out with it. Make sure the obstruction is gone by running water.

If it’s still blocked, the problem is most likely much worse. Remove the horizontal pipe from beneath your sink that connects the trap to the stub pipe in the wall, either by hand or using a pipe wrench. Turn the snake handle clockwise as you drive the auger deeper into the pipe, seeking to capture and eliminate any resistance. Once the problem has been remedied, retract the cable from the stub pipe and rejoin the trap and horizontal pipe.

9. Fill up a crack on the sidewalk

If you don’t live in an apartment, your empire (and its care) may reach the driveway. Unfortunately, fissures in concrete and asphalt are unavoidable, and if ignored, they will turn into full-fledged potholes. Thankfully, they’re straightforward to fix. Remove any plants or debris from the space with a screwdriver or knife tip first, then blast out anything deeper with the garden hose. Allow for the healing of the crack.

When it’s dry, use crack filler to fill in the cracks until they’re flush with the rest of the restored surface, then let it dry for at least 24 hours. If the crack is still visible, apply a second coat. Wait one to two days after you’ve patched the crack before walking or driving on it to ensure it’s properly set.

10. Switch out the shower head

To loosen the notch on the old shower head, turn a wrench counterclockwise, then screw it off with your hands. Using a rag soaked in vinegar or a little bit of alcohol, scrub any filth or residue off the old shower head stem. Wrap several layers of Teflon tape around the stem pipe’s end, then smooth it out with your fingers. Install the replacement head on the pipe by hand, tightening it clockwise. Turn on the shower to check for leaks; if the water is still spouting, tighten the replacement shower head with a wrench, being careful not to overtighten it.

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