Another era has come: no longer need to loudly and colorfully expose the sins of paraben-glycol creams. The girls grew up and realized that the main thing is not the jar, but its contents, that cunning manufacturers skillfully disguise toxic components. under beautiful names and labels for a reason (yes, under this very “eco-bio”). That there is reason to carefully study the composition of the cream or masks before trying them on yourself. And there are at least five reasons to choose natural cosmetics over conventional ones.
REASON ONE: Pharmaceutical
Most of the documents regulating the cosmetic industry still describe cosmetics as products that do not penetrate deeper than the stratum corneum of the skin. The old textbooks on cosmetology and dermatology use the thesis of impermeability of the skin, endorse the use of large-molecule chemicals in cosmetic formulations that “lie on the surface and are not absorb”, in other words, create an occlusive film.
This approach was form in the middle of the twentieth century and has not yet been revised at the legislative level, and considering how many cosmetic corporations are tied to this very approach in their production, they are unlikely to lobby for a revision of official papers in the near future.
The scientific data accumulated over the past 10-15 years have forced a serious rethinking of the issue of skin permeability, and this happened thanks to pharmacists . Today there are more and more medicinal transdermal preparations, those that have an effect on the body, penetrating the skin. For example, popular nicotine patches, patches with potent painkillers, which are use even for cancer patients, contraceptive patches.
But back to cosmetics: if we say that a cosmetics products in pakistan works to moisturize the skin (epidermis level) and even stimulates the production of collagen and elastin (dermis), then the contents of the cosmetic product must penetrate beyond the stratum corneum. For this to work, the components of the product must have the following properties:
- low molecular size ( up to 500 daltons )
- positive molecular charge (skin surface negatively charged)
- fat solubility of assets
Enhancers are also used to improve penetration. They are a transport system that allows active ingredients to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. The most popular enhancers in cosmetology now are liposomes .
The walls of liposomes are very similar in structure to the membrane of skin cells. Absorbed from the surface, liposomes are not rejected, but embedded in it (the cell membrane). And their contents go directly inside. At the same time, liposomes in the skin decompose on their own and completely without harm to it. Fruit acids or essential oils also have very small molecules, and therefore are able to pave the way to larger molecules, temporarily changing the fluidity and permeability of lipid layers.
Add to this the influence of surfactants. Let us also recall the popularity of peelings of varying degrees of aggressiveness, which make the skin even more “bare and defenseless”.
In general, one way or another, but the idea of impenetrable skin is no longer entirely justified. Yes, in theory, cosmetics should only work on the surface. But there are two options: either it will not give anything, except for softening and temporarily moisturizing the skin. Or she still works deeper. And if so, then we choose to know what exactly gets inside the skin.
REASON TWO: symbiotic
Our skin is not just an elastic shell of dead brick cells. The skin is a large and very important organ with many functions. Microorganisms also live on our skin. Yes, yes, and there are a lot of them: there are about 10 thousand microorganisms per square centimeter of the skin surface , and more than 1 million per square centimeter in the deeper layers. And there’s nothing wrong with that, on the contrary, we can’t do it without these guys, honestly!
When you apply a cream on the skin, these same millions of microorganisms meet it. Break it down into lipids present in cosmetics. It is not oils and creams themselves that go into the deep layers of the skin, but their constituent components. And these very components must be bioavailable and biodegradable (“digestible”). Otherwise, their use is at least useless for the skin. The cream will remain on the surface, at best, only moisturizing the skin, or even block the excretory processes. But the skin literally eats organic cosmetics.
It is worth choosing cosmetics, guided by the same principles as food in the grocery store. And if you prefer farm chickens to broiler chickens raised on hormones, then it is better to choose cosmetics that are based on organic vegetable oils and extracts.
REASON THREE: corneotherapeutic
In 1964, Albert Kligman laid the foundation for the science of corneology, and on its basis, the direction of corneotherapy was creat, which studies the structural features of the stratum corneum of the skin, its composition, maintaining its integrity and regeneration.
Corneotherapy is guided by the principle: with a holistic, healthy stratum corneum, the skin is protect from dehydration, infection, free radicals and radiation, inflammatory processes, it does not react to allergens.
The whole secret is that the best building material for the skin is fats, similar to the lipids of the stratum corneum: ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. And when creating cosmetic products based on corneotherapeutic knowledge, lipid compositions similar to the stratum corneum of the skin are used. In such cosmetics, the components are physiological (biocompatible with the skin) and are easily absorbed and absorbed by skin cells.
REASON FOUR: functional
Natural cosmetics do not mask the problem, do not have a temporary wow effect. But purposefully reprogram the skin, which eventually begins to function normally by itself.
A well-composed recipe is capable of miracles, which, however, have a prosaic scientific justification. Unfortunately, it is not enough just to randomly mix healthy oils (including essential oils) and extracts with claimed healing properties (as some people do now at home, making homemade creams).
In the right natural cosmetics, only the active ingredients necessary for the task at hand with proven effectiveness (and in a strictly adjusted dosage) are collect. Such cosmetics really heal the skin, normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands, help restore the barrier function and resist inflammatory processes, accelerate regeneration. Teaches the skin, in the future, to cope with all these tasks on its own.
REASON FIVE: economic
Everything useful that can be in any cosmetics is of natural origin. All advertising of creams, shampoos and miracle serums is based on the properties of oils and extracts. The question is how many precious natural ingredients are contain in a jar of this or that cream.
Synthetic emulsifiers, mineral oils, surfactants are cheap components with a shelf life of up to 10 years. And if you see them in the composition of the product in the first places after water.
By the way, few people talk about this, but one of the main “pains” of. The natural cosmetics segment is precisely the high cost. Have you noticed that no brand of natural cosmetics is advertis as actively as the mass market and luxury segment? And even when Garnier releases an Ecocert-certified line, there are no commercials about it on TV. You can understand that the margin is not the same.
Yes, there are no marketing budgets in the niche of natural cosmetics. Because there are simply no such margins that would allow them to recoup. If you make a “cheat” comparable to the market of conventional cosmetics (one that has everything.This is a big problem for business, but a great reason to think about your choice for the end consumer: what exactly do you prefer to buy: wrapping or valuable content?
